Phulkari - The heritage and charm of Punjab

Chinnon Phulkari Bagh Saree

Meet the embroidery that makes use of the least complicated patterns to create an intriguing and adorned product that is loved by people not only in India but globally- Phulkari. Its throughout the year wearability factor makes this style top the ranking among other Indian handcrafted forms globally. The Phulkari outfit can be customised depending on the occasion. 

Phulkari refers to the folk embroidery that comes from Punjab. It means flowers but the designs are not restricted to floral motifs and also include geometrical patterns (Phul=Flowers, Akari=Shapes). This art form is crafted on dupattas, sarees, salwar suits, Kurtis, dupattas, stoles, and juttis.

What makes this art form unique?

It uses a darn stitch on the wrong side on cloth along with multicolored silk threads. The magic of the alluring variety lies in the hands of the women who create designs by skilfully manipulating the darn stitch.

The Origin

It all began with the famous love tale of Heer and Ranjha by Waris Shah. The popularity traces back to the 15th century during the rule of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. Phulkari played a vital role in the life of a woman- wedding, birth, and religious functions.

The embroideries were a reflection of their life and included the things they observed. Every woman had her way of representing. This art form was taught to the daughters, just like other household chores. 

The fall and comeback

During the partition of India and Pakistan, Phulkari took a backseat. But it wasn't for a long. It soon sprang back gaining its popularity. With commercialisation, quicker techniques for production were devised. Today, we can purchase both machine-made, and handmade Phulkari depending on our preference and budget.

The Fabric

The embroidery all began on a piece of cloth know as Khaddar with was hand-spun cotton. Over time, with trends changing different fabrics such as Chanderi, Chiffon, Georgette, and Silk are being used to create these phulkari designs.

The Phulkari Types

The motifs that spun out of the silk threads are fitted precisely within the grids.

  • Phulkari: It refers to flower work. The embroidery reveals a lot of ground cloth.
  • Bagh: It refers to the garden of flowers. In this, the embroidery in abundant, leaving the ground color invisible. It is time-consuming, demands more patience and material, thus increasing the cost. 
  • Chope: It is embroidered straight with two side lines stitched on both sides. It is embroidered with a single colored thread- a golden or yellow.


Using their imagination and creativity, they came up with all the different motifs. The source of inspiration lies in the flowers, animals, vegetables, wheat, and barley stalks. The most commonly seen animal motif is the peacock.

With time innovations have been observed in the types of motifs embroidered. These new motifs include Kanchan and Butti design.


You made have wondered why some of the phulkari outfits are more expensive to others.

The answer lies in the fabric, technique, and work done on it. Usually, the hand-embroidered phulkaris are on the expensive side compared to the machine-made. The reason being it requires a lot of time and patience.

Also, when it comes to hand-embroidered phulkari products, they are mostly exclusive. Replicating the same design is never possible, and there will be some variations with each piece made.

With new trends coming, artisans are experimenting, leading to the creation of fusion phulkari products.


 Ways to style Phulkari Products

Chiffon lightweight phulkari dupatta

This Chiffon lightweight phulkari dupatta is perfect for the minimalist. It has linear pattern embroidery with a gold lace border. It has been paired with a red long skirt and blacktop along with long earrings and bangles. We recommend this look for a casual or small celebration. 

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 Phulkari lehenga with kanchan embroidery

Chiffon phulkari lehenga with multicolored Kanchan embroidery is ideal for all festivities. It is light, subtle yet eye-catching. Just sporting this lehenga brings all the charm you require. Just add some bangles and earrings, and you are all ready to rock.

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Phulkari Saree

 For all festivities and celebrations, this phulkari jaal work saree is an ideal pick. It is simple yet elegant, and adding some jewelry is enough to complete your appearance.

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 Phulkari salwar suit

This phulkari suit makes classic occasion wear. It is vibrant in color and has a multicolor phulkari bagh dupatta. Teaming it with a necklace and pair of earrings is just perfect to elevate your ethnic look.

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Hand embroidered pure leather jutti

This hand-embroidered hand-made pure leather jutti, is a perfect accessory for all occasions. It is trendy and beautiful. You can match it with your ethnic, fusion, or western outfit.

 So my readers, if you haven't added one of each of the phulkari products to your wardrobe, we bring to you a perfect opportunity. Head to our Phulkari Collection and explore the adorning collection that awaits you.

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